Battery in the boot - voltage problems

aj510 · 22-12-2009, 12:02 PM

I'm having voltage drop problems with my battery in the boot.

I am sure the problem lies in the cabling I have used but would like to confirm.

Cable used is very fine gauge as used for amps etc.

I can't seem to find any thicker gauge - any tips on where to buy a few metres of the stuff. Everyone seems to sell 500mm to 1metre lengths made for specific makes.

bigred360 · 22-12-2009, 04:10 PM

Yep cable is your problem Adam - try Welding suppliers - the thick cable they use has more strands and you can buy off the roll in whatever length you need. Will work fine and cheaper than specialist auto suppliers.

YLD-305 · 22-12-2009, 04:21 PM

Im asuming you are using that cable for the starter?? If so then YES its way too small! also the longer it is the more voltage drop you will get. You'll need around 3 B and S or thicker. Its a good idea to run a positive lead(for power to starter) and a negative lead(earth to block). It shouldnt be that hard to find. I think Jaycar or autobarn or someone like that sells it by the metre off the roll. Or let me know when your down here and ill give you some

aj510 · 22-12-2009, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigred360

Yep cable is your problem Adam - try Welding suppliers - the thick cable they use has more strands and you can buy off the roll in whatever length you need. Will work fine and cheaper than specialist auto suppliers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YLD-305

Im asuming you are using that cable for the starter?? If so then YES its way too small! also the longer it is the more voltage drop you will get. You'll need around 3 B and S or thicker. Its a good idea to run a positive lead(for power to starter) and a negative lead(earth to block). It shouldnt be that hard to find. I think Jaycar or autobarn or someone like that sells it by the metre off the roll. Or let me know when your down here and ill give you some

Thanks for the replies guys.

I should note that the cable is very thick but the copper in it is very thin sort of gauge. It use to work fine when I first installed it - but now it's totally useless - whether I have a new battery or not.

Never thought of hitting the welding supplies places, I'll give that a go, thanks Neil.

@ Brad - I have got a negative running to the block - however it is the same sort of cable (thick amp cable). Would that be worth changing too??

greenhj · 22-12-2009, 05:59 PM

Forget the welding shop, it will cost you a fortune, go to an electrical wholesaler and buy it from them.

kustom67 · 22-12-2009, 09:21 PM

hey aj i dont know if you guys have them up in nsw,but if ya do try bearing wholesalers they,re pretty good with materials of that kind

YLD-305 · 22-12-2009, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aj510

@ Brad - I have got a negative running to the block - however it is the same sort of cable (thick amp cable). Would that be worth changing too??

Definatly.It is as important as the positive lead

alstgg180 · 23-12-2009, 08:43 AM

A J ya can get away with using thin wire.
With your fitting's that go to the positive starter motor use brass fitting's same with the negative. Ever solider it or copper weld it.

As for the pos & neg terminal's in the boot I have used brass fitting's as my battrey is a dry cell and has brass top's I have no problem getting the power to travel to the front.

Here are some picture's of my battrey clamp's $15.00 each but worth every cent as they dont rust or croade.
Cheer's Al

FRDTOY · 23-12-2009, 04:47 PM

im having the same problem with my xw. battery is in the boot and once it gets warm it doesn't want to start really is becoming a pain

BENT 8 · 23-12-2009, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRDTOY

im having the same problem with my xw. battery is in the boot and once it gets warm it doesn't want to start really is becoming a pain

That aint a voltage problem its called heat soak, the starter solinoid is to hot wrap it or buy a roll of stick on heat sheild.......

22-12-2009, 04:10 PM	#2 (permalink)
bigred360 Virgin Racer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sydney Ride: Hey Charger!! Posts: 771	Yep cable is your problem Adam - try Welding suppliers - the thick cable they use has more strands and you can buy off the roll in whatever length you need. Will work fine and cheaper than specialist auto suppliers. __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

22-12-2009, 04:21 PM	#3 (permalink)
YLD-305 Wannbe Racer Join Date: May 2008 Location: in a house Ride: holden torana View My Photo Gallery Tetris Champion! Goblin Heart Champion! Posts: 696	Im asuming you are using that cable for the starter?? If so then YES its way too small! also the longer it is the more voltage drop you will get. You'll need around 3 B and S or thicker. Its a good idea to run a positive lead(for power to starter) and a negative lead(earth to block). It shouldnt be that hard to find. I think Jaycar or autobarn or someone like that sells it by the metre off the roll. Or let me know when your down here and ill give you some __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by YLD-305; 22-12-2009 at 04:23 PM.

22-12-2009, 05:59 PM	#5 (permalink)
greenhj Newby Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 15	Forget the welding shop, it will cost you a fortune, go to an electrical wholesaler and buy it from them. Last edited by greenhj; 09-04-2010 at 09:24 PM.

22-12-2009, 09:21 PM	#6 (permalink)
kustom67 Series Winner Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: melbourne Ride: za fairlane Posts: 1,786	hey aj i dont know if you guys have them up in nsw,but if ya do try bearing wholesalers they,re pretty good with materials of that kind __________________ TEAM BLUE OVAL

23-12-2009, 08:43 AM	#8 (permalink)
alstgg180 Provisional Driver Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: N.S.W Ride: Blown Tg Gemini View My Photo Gallery Minesweeper Champion! Sonic Champion! Posts: 475	A J ya can get away with using thin wire. With your fitting's that go to the positive starter motor use brass fitting's same with the negative. Ever solider it or copper weld it. As for the pos & neg terminal's in the boot I have used brass fitting's as my battrey is a dry cell and has brass top's I have no problem getting the power to travel to the front. Here are some picture's of my battrey clamp's $15.00 each but worth every cent as they dont rust or croade. Cheer's Al __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. YOUR NOT KNOWN UNLESS YOUR BLOWN

23-12-2009, 04:47 PM	#9 (permalink)
FRDTOY Brake Slammer Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: sydney Ride: xw fairmont View My Photo Gallery Panicball Champion! x227 Champion! Golden Shower Champion! BOT Wars Champion! Massive Attack 2 Champion! Sea Assault Champion! Kaboom Champion! Clown Killer 2 Champion! Rythm Snake Champion! Splat Man Champion! Fuel Transport Champion! Thrust II Champion! Lunar Command Champion! Star Wars 2 Champion! Yeti Longshot Version I Champion! Yetisports6 - Big Wave Champion! Yeti Long Shot: Porpoheus Champion! Yeti Long Shot: Random Bounce Champion! Yeti 1 Greece Champion! Yeti Pentathlon Champion! Yetisports 10 - Icicle Climb Champion! Tank named Grizzly Champion! Operation Maus Champion! Tournaments Won: 1 Posts: 171	im having the same problem with my xw. battery is in the boot and once it gets warm it doesn't want to start really is becoming a pain __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

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