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I was working on my datto today and swapping over turbos and thought i’d go through the mods I had to undertake to go from the original T25g to a GT25 turbo. They aren’t really a direct bolton, but they’re pretty close .
If you are currently running a T series Garrett turbo (ie T25g which is the factory turbo on the likes of ca18det’s and sr20det’s), then you’re going to need to make a few modifications to help with the changeover.
A GT Garrett series turbo is not so much a direct bolt on, although it is pretty close. The mods to be made are only minor, but NEED to be done or else your new turbo will never be putting a smile on your face.
The water pipe on the bottom of the turbo housing on the GT does not line up with the holes in the turbo piping from the T series Garrett. (see image below)
Since the base plate is made out of soft metal, there is no need to get really aggressive with the file, take your time and take long smooth controlled strokes. I took about 30 minutes to get the holes large enough to be able to bolt the pipe onto the turbo housing.
Now before you get all excited and bolt the pipe on your new turbo, get yourself some gasket paper. You’ll need to cut out the gasket paper in the shape of the baseplate of the water pipe base plate (image below) and then carefully cut out the holes to line up with the bolt holes on the base plate(again image below).
When you bolt the waterpipe onto your GT turbo, place a little thread lock on the bolt threads for good measure - TIP when putting thread lock on, you ONLY need to put it on the start of the thread and you definitely do NOT need alot. Next step might be unnecessary if you bought an actuator shaft with a dog leg in it to suit your new turbo setup. But I didn’t as they wanted to charge me $50 for the shaft only so as with everything else I figured i’d just make my own one. I started off with a standard wastegate actuator shaft, wound it onto the actuator and had a look at what adjustments needed to be made for the shaft to line up with the wastegate.
As you can see, the length is pretty good, just need to come in about 10mm. I first cut the end off the shaft, the end that attaches to the wastegate. I had a piece of round bar ~10mm diamater laying about so cut about a 20mm length off it and welded that to the shaft that attaches to the actuator.
Next I attached my new welded piece to the actuator and placed the other piece on the wastegate, to ascertain where to weld it on. Mark it was a pencil or scratch it up (yup i’m not all that fussy about things). I simply tacked on the eyelet that attaches to the wastegate itself and checked that I had it in the correct location. Once i’d done that, I welded up the shaft, ground the welds back and checked there was no cracking.
Last of all a quick paint job for the new wastgate actuator shaft, with a bit of flame proof spray paint.
NOTE : The wastegate actuator shaft has a thread in it, so if you put it in a vice, be GENTLE! You will be right up shit creek if you don’t squash the thread!
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Posted By:
AJ , On:
AJ
Posted In: MCF Datsun SR20DET, Other
